Vinegar. Mustard. Salt. Pepper. Vegetable or olive oil. Shallots? Garlic? Lemon juice?
After many years in the kitchen, one takes certain short cuts and it was evident that the ideal taste of this most basic of dressings has became more and more elusive to capture in our kitchen. I returned to basics and consulted a few expert recipes on creating the perfect, classic vinairette dressing. This is what I rediscovered.
There is general consensus about the ratio of 1 part vinegar to three parts of oil. Except for the illustrious Michel Roux and Delia Smith who advise a luxurious ratio of 1:5. French chefs also recommend using good quality vegetable oils. Other chefs substitute the vinegar with lemon or lime juice for a more piquant flavour.
Most chefs or cooks in France add ready-mixed Dijon mustard into their vinaigrette sauces, whereas Delia Smith and Julia Child add mustard powder into the salt and freshly-cracked peppercorn mix. Chefs all agree about one thing - use only the best quality ingredients you can find for this simple dressing. Salt does not dissolve in oil, so mix the salt, mustard and pepper into the vinegar before adding the oil. The use of garlic or finely chopped shallots are considered optional extras. Vegetable oils are used in many recipes but on the farm we use only high-quality olive oil, from strong, peppery to soft delicate oils. Our olive oil of choice is of course the Domaine de Gerbaud BIO AOP Provence as we have litres of different blends available.
I start with Delia Smith's technique by grinding the flaked salt and peppercorns with a pestle and mortar. Once the peppercorns are properly cracked and the salt flakes fine, it dissolves easily in the vinegar. Thereafter add in a garlic clove and mince the ingredients into a fine pulp. Grind in the mustard powder or prepared Dijon mustard. I recently discovered a jar of prepared organic mustard with Herbs de Provence from Maison Bremond in the pantry and this made a truly delicious vinaigrette. So good that summer guests lingered around the dinner table finishing off the bowl of salad dressing with teaspoons!
Put the vinegar and condiment mixture into a deepish bowl and slowly, whisking continuously, pour a thin stream of olive oil into the vinegar mixture. (Some chefs suggest shaking up all the ingredients in a closed jar. The whisked dressing is slightly thicker in consistency than the shaked jar version.) Keep on whisking till you reach an emulsion. Give a final whisk just before using.
A note on French vinegars: my favourite vinegars are the tasty white and rosé Pineau des Charentes Vinaigres. They are available online in France, Germany and in Great Britian.
Julia Child's vinaigrette recipe is a classic reference and by listing it below is a homage to this great cook who promoted French cuisine in America.
Ingredients:
1/8 teaspoon of flaked salt (saltier than fine table salt)
Peppercorns or ground pepper to taste
1/4 teaspon dry mustard mustard
2 tablespoons of wine vinegar
6 tablespoons Domaine de Gerbaud BIO AOP Provence extra virgin olive oil or vegetable oil of your choice
1 1/2 teaspoons of finely minced shallots or scallions
Method:
Combine vinegar, salt and mustard in a bowl and whisk until the ingredients are dissolved.
Whisk in oil and stir in shallots and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning.
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